2008 grand caravan loss of power on turns for 2 seconds

How many miles and how is the maintenance

100k miles. Maintenance is unknown... I got the van 6 months ago and always had this problem.

My initial post for RPM was in accurate. During the turn the engine RPM drops and has no power. I was also able to brake as normal during this.

I may have finally found the issue or at least able to stop the problem. As oddly as it may sound, it is related to the ignition switch and the keyfob. the problem does not happen when I use the actual key on the first start. This has been acting perfect over the last week.

So Here is an update. I have been using the key since but my problem started coming back last week. When I start my turn, my acceleration is lost until I straighten out the wheel. I do not have any check engine codes. I also do not have a clue on what to check next.

Interesting problem, but it wasn’t likely to be the SKIM (security key bla bla bla), it would cut you off 3 seconds after engine start not mid-drive. You’re not mentioning anything useful like right turn vs left turn, tight turn vs change lanes on the interstate. Does the engine die and all the dashboard warning lamp come on or does everything go dark, etc. so, given no information and assuming it takes a non-trivial turn and that there isn’t a total loss of dashboard and cabin electric power, my guess is that engine grounding is failing. When you turn the engine is shifting around on worn out mounts and a thoroughly old and worn grounding braid is gone and your only ground is at the starter and it’s conductors are broken inside the insulation so that when the engine shifts out of position, the conductors part and suddenly there’s no engine ground, no fuel gets injected and no spark to ignite it. The dashboard, radio, powertrain control module, etc are still getting battery power, but no alternator charging current. I think it’s likely there will be some Chrysler specific trouble codes stored, but the epa obd2 emissions codes that budget code readers can check apparently aren’t storing anything. It’s also possible that something else is shifting and opening and closing something critical like pcm power, or the pcm is defective in some novel way, but only losing one small system like spark or fuel injection would have triggered an obd2 misfire code, so I don’t think you need to start checking every little cable. At that van’s age, the only thing left of the original braided engine ground near the alternator will be the end lugs. You probably need at least one motor mount, a ground strap and a starter cable. All fairly cheap part that are quick-n-easy to install.