Parked truck and just quit! Turn the key now and nothing won't turn over at all everything else works

Is the theft light flashing when you turn the key on?

It always flashes when u turn the key as if to start it stays on solid

Yes but is it flashing constantly now since this happened?

It flashes the same as befoe this happened

I plugged in a code reader and it said no link

If it set the anti theft off this is what it will do stall no crank. Light should flash a few times and then stay on steady to start.

Do you have another key to try and start it?

Ok so if that is the problem how do u reset it

No I only have the 1 key

You can't. Truck has to be reprogrammed with 2 keys.The best thing to do is call a locksmith and have him do it rather than have to be towed to a dealer.

How would this happen with the key in the truck and it be running?

The antitheft has to recognize the key to run.The key has a chip in it. The key has probably went bad and when it loses the signal the antitheft shuts the vehicle down.

And a regular locksmith can fix or change it? I dont have to go to the dealer

Yes they will have the equipment and keys to do it much cheaper than a dealer.

Check the PCM relay in the fuse panel, mine went and when trying to start the engine won't crank and there is a click coming from the fuse panel, you get a link error using a OBD2 reader and check gauges error on the odometer. The click is the relay trying to make contact, but the points have stopped making contact so the power doesn't go through to the starter, On a 2007 F150 it is relay #203, you can try one of the other ones beside it as they are identical relays and are for the fog lights #202 or towing lights #201, you decide which you can do without to get you going again.

I know this is old but you can reset the theft protection by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for 10 minutes or so. I've had this happen twice and a tow truck driver showed this to me.

what is a solenoids inline fuse

Wire fuse link

My 2008 f150 starts some days and others it wont. First they said relay fuse (got it changed out). Started doing it again. Then they said the fuse box by driver side under hood. (got it changed out). And again its doing the same thing now I have to unplug the mother board and replug and it starts with no problem. PLEASE HELP WHAT IS GOING ON!!??

I know this is old... but this worked for me. I have a ... actually my wife has a 2002 Ford F150. She drove it home from work fine. 2 hours later she went to drive away and it wouldn't crank. * Battery was fine (tried to jump it) * Fuses fine (checked fuses thinking it was the anti-theft device / chipped key thing) * Starter might have issues (tapped it and it did not seem seized up) * There oil was a bit low (I thought that perhaps the engine sensed the low oil pressure and wouldn't start), but added a pint to get it in range and that wasn't it. * Disconnected the battery (which looked fine, without any corrosion... and which was securely connected before I disconnected it) for 10 minutes to reset theft device. Nope, not it. Then my father in law (gotta love the phone a friend to my wife's dad) suggested that I shift the car into neutral and back into park. Apparently there is some safety device that doesn't allow the car to start if it doesn't think it is in park. On older vehicles this isn't as accurate as it might be. That did it. Moral of the story: add "shifting to neutral and back into park" into the regiment.

Thanks for the review. Shifting into neutral worked right away for our 2006 F150. Saved us lots of time reading this. It just would not start. Lights were on but no even trying to turn over. Easy fix.

I've had this problem over the past 2 years. Was towed 4x, the truck started when it got to where it was towed. Then about 9 months ago, it was suggested I try starting in Neutral. That worked. Happened a couple more times over the past 9 months, put in Neutral and started. Until this weekend, wouldn't start in park, tried netural, no luck. Got towed, started at the garage. Happened again the next day, wouldn't start in park, tried neutral, no luck. Went back the next morning, it started. At the garage now. It won't not start. Trying to diagnose it at the garage.

2004 550 when I turn key I get nothing, battery and starter are new.. this has happened on a few occasions, if I rapidity keep turning key on and of I eventually get it to start.. not sure what it is

What was the diagnosis at the garage?

I'm having the same issues (all the above). Did anyone find out the cause? PCM, Relay/Fuse box, neutral switch?

It was my starter. Fixed.

Thanks I will check that.

Ok so I was driving my truck to one of my farm houses cut it off parked it truck started fine got to the next farm house cut the truck off left roughly around 10min of being there hop in the truck to head home and truck just clicks so I’m thinking starter I replaced that and had the same issue checked my oil that was perfectly fine I did an oil change a week prior tried to jump it didn’t work tried to cross starter also didn’t work all dash lights are fine anti theft lights blink with a 2 second intervals until key is in and stays solid then cuts off then back to a click when full turned I tried putting it in neutral to start it but still no luck can someone give me an idea on what’s going on it’s an 05 f150 FX4 5.4L

it is the key. i had the same problem, when i switched keys it started , I tried this several times back and forth

If it’s the key do I just get a locksmith to come and make another because I don’t have a spare

Also if the key was to loose it connection wouldn’t the anti theft light blink compared to staying sold and cutting off as normal

2004 ford F150 v8 4.6L Car starts intermittently. No crank, but lights on dash. I tried in neutral no luck, Got towed and as soon as they dropped it off, it started. Battery is good. ANy suggestions?

2006 FX4 - I recently had my transmission go out. Got it rebuilt. A week later, no crank. Got it towed, it started at the shop. Since then, if I do not have enough "momentum" while I put it in "park" - then the next time I try to crank, it wouldn't start. (side note: I've also noticed that sometimes my back-up lights while in reverse do not come and the sensors do not work, unless I get it "just right") I've learned that if I get behind my truck and "push it forward", kind of rocking it back an forth that something underneath will make a "click" noise. I cranks right up, every time when I do this. I got the idea, thinking that the tow must have "jostled" something around. Since then, I've taken it back to the shop that did the transmission rebuild, but they are at a loss. Not sure how to fix this. Any ideas? Seems like I'm not the only one...

I have a 2011 Ford F-150 Eco Boost Lariat. I was driving down the road and the engine shut off. i have power to everything but it will not start back up for a few min. it doesn't click it doesn't even try to start. After waiting for a few min. it will start back up and go.the this happened i was parked and it just shut off. few min. later it would start back up, once it started back up it wont shift out of park. still doing same thing now. when i push brake i can hear the click in the column and the "P" indicator lights up on dash like it does when you move hears it just wont move unless i reach finger in and move the tab under the stick shifter. PLEASE HELPPP

Ok I see all of these issues my truck is doing g the same thing I have to jump the starter sometimes. HOWEVER I do notice the issue only happens when the P,N,D do not light up everything else lights up except that. I can start it most of the time if I wait and play with the shifter until the P,N,D light up!! Sounds like the same issue everyone else is having! Any suggestions??

Mine was the incorrect key as well, one works and the other didn't. The incorrect key made that annoying red light flash continually. Just bought it yesterday and didn't even notice the difference between the keys.

1998 Ford Expedition with nearly 300,000 miles. Once in a while it does not engage the starter. Put it in neutral and back to park and it always starts up. Try this before you spend a bunch of money on un-necessary repairs. Happened again today and it has been so long that I forgot about doing this. Found this link on google and refreshed my memory. I am old so THANKS FOR THE INTERNET AND PEOPLE THAT POST THEIR REPAIR SOLUTIONS!!! Without your help, they would have taken me to the cleaners at a repair shop !!

Hey guys! I've had the same problem. While the vehicle is in park and off (obviously), try moving the vehicle back and forth. When that's done, turn the key, accessories only,(don't crank) move the shifter to N then back to P. Try to start. If it does, it's most likely the Solonoid control switch assembly or (Transmission control module) I've heard both terms used. Located at the base of the transmission, driver side. approx. $150 (for mine). Good luck!

Hey so i have a 2000 f150 and it's had a pot of electrical problems from a bad windshield installation sense then I have got a new windshield and it has been fine but recently the blinkers don't work when i turn the wheel and the back brake lights don't work now. Just tonight the truck wouldn't start i turned the key everything worked but it wouldn't start there was a qlicking from the fuses and it started up again i think it's the wiring in the steering wheel but could it be anything else?

Thanks to all many good answers. I used the switch to neutral and it finally started. Working on this for 2 hours until I found this site. My 2008 F150 Super 5.4 Triton XLT, would not start after replacing blown fuse 32 to correct multiple DTC Codes : Tried to start after and click and I could hear the fuel pump, would not turn over. Then I took another code read again and received a B2900 VIN mismatch ABS. Tried this procedure shifting to neutral, the truck started up and the B2900 error is gone strange. I really was surprised this worked.

Also check the PCM ground. It was located under the driver side kick panel on our 2004 F150. We didn't have any interior lights, dash gauges or door chime. Only had a chirping sound when we turned the key. Also had PCM error when connected to the reader. When we finally located the hidden ground wire it was in a rusty location. Relocating that ground connection fixed our problem.

Thanks, found a short in a connector. I only found it after cleaning the engine all codes gone after repair. The person who drove this before loved to go offroad. Drives great now got it for 1,800 great price.

I have a 2012 Ford F150 - Same issue. I've checked the relay's, all the fuses, the starter, nothing. Anti Theft is not flashing, or on. There are no codes on the OBD reader. I'm down to possibly replacing the ignition switch. I've tried both keys. Neither will work. Can anyone help me with my 2012 Ford F150? it's very frustrating at this point

you could try putting the Truck in Neutral and then start the Truck. Had this happen before on a 2009 F150.

Also try the Fuel Pump Drive Module (FPDM) I have 2 - 2005 Ford F-150’s a 2wd STX 6cyl and FX6 (you read it right) 4wd 5.4 V8. Their a known defect in mount/corrosion/housing cracks-corrodes. Not a hard fix located on cross member above spare tire. They can be intermittent and I got mine to restart after tapping crossmemeber from left rear wheel well with ratchet. It controls fuel pump so with key on you should be able to hear pump turn on for a few seconds. Hope this helps didn’t see this listed.

I have a 2000 5.4 f150. Moved it 3 months ago went to start it and no crank. Replaced battery (nothing) starter & a corroded wire. Removed serpentine belt to turn the motor. Turned fine. Manually turned other parts. AC compressor wouldn't turn. Diagram under hood shows a bypass for routing a serpentine belt w/o ac. All auto parts sell them w/o ac as option. Wish I would've started with the belt and tested those all out and saved myself the $250 of parts and time. Learned a lot though. Fingers crossed it'll fire up when I bypass the AC later today. Read about the PCM relay (switched with other relay) and other possible fuses all seemed fine, but just a heads up to save time and maybe start with the belt and manually checking the alternator, water pump, power steering, etc. Good Luck!

The most common problem is the park safety switch not engaging. Most likely at one point while your tugging, pounding, replacing, or just getting in and out of your truck or suv you bumped the shift lever and engaged the switch and WA LA it started. Next time you turn the key and there is nothing, just simply pull the shifter into gear and put it back into park, maybe just a LITTLE harder than normal. 99.9% of the time this will take care of the problem.

I had the same problem it was my key I put more pressure on it forcing the key to open more (like forcing a foor an extra 1/2" to get a couch through) and it started right up.

2007 F explorer. Key turns no power on the dash. Theft light blinks normal. Ignition switch changed. Battery full voltage. No sound when the key turns. Power on all fuses. Spare key tried no luck. Neutral to park didn’t work either. Suggestions?

I'm having problem with 98 f-150 2 wheel 4.6 or 9. It stalled out once while driving but cranked up and drive fine. The next day I stalled out again and it hasn't cranked since. Please any help will be great. it has a new battery, I replaced hoses mass airflow sensors, three of them, followed ever sensor electric line possible pulled all the connections and check, unhook batter, fuel reset fine, started in neutral (or attempted) replaced fuel filter, pump kicks on and prime, check all fuses and tested all relays . I freaking pulled my throttle body off and apart cleaned the intake I found two clogged ports in my throttle body and got it clear. Replaced the throttle body and still would only turn over without starting. Soooooo I drive back in pulled it apart again pulled all my fuel injectors cleaned them up and the fuel rails pulled the spark plugs checked gapping and cleaned all that up out it all back together and still nothing.... Helppp please I'm running out of stuff to do here

TRANSPONDER IN KEY WAS PROBLEM THAT WE FOUND

We had the issue of the parking the truck and then nothing with the engine, dash lights on and on but nothing else. Not even a click from the starter. It turned out there was a short in the junction box in the fuse box in the cab on passenger side.

i have a 2006 f150 checked fuses, relays, battery fine, starter fine, had key tested they said it was working, anti theft light working normal...... the only thing i can think of is the steering wheel stopped locking when the key is in the off position, or out of the ignition cylinder. cant figure out what locks and unlocks the steering wheel.

all lights on dash and everything works,just no signal going to the starter

I have the same issue. 2007 King Ranch. Was out in the bush (gravel roads) stopped to look around, got back in and no crank. All gauges on, no messages. Checked fuel pump was turning on, checked terminals on battery and starter for looseness and corrosion, tried tapping on the starter, still nothing. Checked a few fuses related to starting, nothing. Pulled negative battery cable to try to reset, alarm went off once it was reconnected, turned it off with the key fob. Had a simple code reader with me, check for any codes, no codes found (knowing I have a P0012... long story).I don't think disconnecting the batttery for that short of time would clear codes, now thinking no communication with PCM. Called my buddy in town, came and towed me back to his place. Jumped the starter terminals and it cranks. Now with an internet connection, google results indicated PCM relay. Pulled the relay and swapped it with the fog lights. Started right up. Backed off the trailer and shut it off. Went to restart as a check, and no crank. Figuring there is a short blowing the relay I checked the PCM fuse. It was good, plugged it back in and horn goes off again. Unlock it with the key fob and starts right up. Switched the relay with the trailer power relay and started up again. (cant remember if horn went off again or not). Checked around for any wires that might be shorting out, found a suspicious one and moved it out of the way. Nothing. Pulled the PCM fuse again quickly and plugged it back in. Horn goes off, turn it off with the key fob and it starts up. Long and short, truck will start every time only after the unlock button on the key fob is pressed a couple times. Still need to check further to see if it is a bad key or ignition switch, or something else, but thought it might help someone stranded.

Gear indicator should align to selected gear including Park. The systems will think the car is in Reverse if the indicator is not pointing to Park and won’t turn over in Reverse. Putting it in Neutral might work for awhile but... You need to adjust the shift indicator. See YouTube videos to learn how it’s done.

I have a 2003 F-150 Lariat and I usually have to jiggle the starter wires while someone else turns over on it to get it to start.

https://youtu.be/C1SdHBCujAo. Fuel Pump Driver Module..Had to replace mine twice already. This mechanic explains why it blows the PCM, etc.

V.6 4.2 motor stick shift..new battery - solenoid on firewall - starter all relays and fuses tested good and I installed an ignition switch and still no crank no start. I have old fashioned key. No power windows/standard. All dash lights come on when I turn key but won't crack or start.