3rd Gear nonsense! 93 Econoline 150 5.0.

10

Asked by M.c. Mar 17, 2022 at 04:37 PM about the 1993 Ford E-Series E-150 STD Econoline

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

1993 E150 5.0 Auto. Idles fine (cold and operating temp). When I start
driving theres an obvious loss of power, but doesn't sputter, hitch, or
backfire. When she goes into 3rd, that's when the weird starts. She starts
missing and jerking a bit until I put my foot in it, even then it's still slowish to
speed up. Parts I've replaced so far: Canister Purge Valve, Lower Intake
Manifold (For other reasons), MAF/MAP Sensor (Whichever one is mounted
on the blower motor housing and NOT the single port TB), Distributor Cap
and Rotor, Spark Plugs & Wires, Thermostat & Housing, TPS. Going to try a
couple other things today. Replacing the fuel filter, egr valve, and fuel
pump/sending unit.
Ran it for codes, got a 122:TPS below min voltage , 123:TPS above min
voltage, 126:MAP/BARO sensor +/- normal, and 327: evp/ept circuit below
voltage. It idles fine now @ operating temps. Still has the 3rd gear kicking
and major power loss though. Nervous to try and drive it any amount of
miles so I won't. The TPS and MAP/MAF are brand new. Have to wait till
tomorrow for EGR.

3 Answers

10

Well, turns out I had it on the wrong firing order on top of having a bad cooling fan clutch. My guess is that the bad thermostat caused excessive heat which damaged the springed element in the center causing low fan speed and overheating.

10

Still getting the codes though. Probably have a damaged wire/short somewhere. I've heard that the chassis ground from the battery can cause some similar issues.

10

Problem solved! Turns out I replaced A BUNCH of parts that didn't need it. There was only really one problem to begin with, but due to human error (it's me...I'm the human!) it became two. When I changed the plugs and wires, I didn't record what firing order it was in. I looked up 3 or 4 different firing orders for 302's from around the late 80's early 90's. Of course, I had the wrong one going. That's all fixed now and on to the other problem of overheating. What I think and am fairly certain of is that the lower radiator hose had a spring/coil inside it to prevent collapse and stalling the coolant flow. I tried giving the engine direct throttle while looking at the lower coolant hose and sure enough....caved right in on itself. Pretty certain it had a spring, but being from 1992 it was more than likely rotted mostly. So when the spring broke and the hose collapsed causing ALOT of heat which broke the fan clutch as well as jack up the thermostat. It didnt occur to me at the time, but when I changed the water pump there was a good 1/4 inch layer of black gunk on the back of the tin plate.

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