2013 Subaru Outback 2.5i


Asked by Guru1783B Sep 30, 2019 at 11:39 PM about the 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5i

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

2013 Subaru Outback________

Owner of a 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5i. Bought the
car in 2017 with 73,000 miles on it. Drove fine, but
always noticed it would burn a lot of oil. Some told
me this was typical for a Subaru. I mentioned to my
service tech at the dealership, and they performed
an Oil Consumption test on it. It failed, so I got a
new small block for free at 99,600 miles. 400 miles
before the extended warranty ran out. ___________

I researched more and found that the extended
warranty was from a settlement between Subaru
and every outback and forester owner from
manufacturer years ‘11-‘14 (approximately).
Engines and CVTs for those years were known to
be bad, and subaru was made to cover all repairs
and replacements for consumption failed engines,
and failed CVTs. I was happy to have a new engine
for free and looked forward to running my car
forever - but always had the little voice in the back
of my head tell me that the CVT could go out any
day. ________

3 months later the AT Oil Temp, Cruise Control,
Traction Control, and Break lights all turned on.
Took it in. Failing Transmission body valve and
transmission harness. $2400 repair. They
recommended I call Subaru of America. I begged
and pleaded for help. SOA covered $1000, and the
dealership participated with $1000, so $400 out of
pocket for me. _________
3 days later, the car turned off on me in the middle
of the highway. All the lights turned on again. Had it
towed to the dealership 60 miles away. Failed
engine harness. Idk why, but the dealership
decided to cover it. $2500 repair, nothing out of
pocket. I’m sure they knew it was their
workmanship, or a continuation of the oil burning

2 months later  (August), the check engine, cruise
control, and break lights turned on. The car would
hesitate sometimes before using all of the power
the gas pedal was giving it. The lights would turn
on and off occasionally, and the acceleration issue
would happen only when the lights would turn on.
Some forums said it could be topping off the gas
tank. Some said it could be the catalytic converter.
Driving halfway to Yosemite, the car loses all gas
power and won’t go no matter how much I hit the
gas pedal. Had it towed 80 miles back home. Put in
an OBD2 scanner, pulled the code for catalytic
converter. Towed 60 miles to the dealership.
Replaced the catalytic converters under California
emissions warranty. Went to pick up the car
Saturday. Still has the same issues. ________

1. Once the car warms up (7-8 miles down the
road) it starts to lose power. _____
2. Full gas on the pedal gives little power for 6
seconds or so, then it starts to speed up______
They’re looking at it as we speak, but my worst fear
is the CVT went out, which the dealership has told
me is an $8000 repair. At this point, idk what to
do... any advice would be helpful. In

2/21 - New Engine ______
6/6 - Transmission body valve and harness ____
6/14 - Engine Harness______
9/28 - Catalytic convertor, o2 sensor_____
9/30 - who knows....

1 Answer


Bummer. A used CVT could give you time to dump this car.

Your Answer:

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