Everything electrical has already been fixed

crank sensor been changed? ignition module under ignition coils been replaced?

So far I've changed the spark plugs and wires, ignition control mod, all the coil packs, cam sensor, cam shaft sensor, the battery. I forgot to add that the battery dies extremely fast. If I let it go 2 days without being driven the battery will be dead, and it is brand new.

Check where the main pcm is under the breather containing the air filter for the intake. Sometimes those wires get rubbed bare. This will cause a malfunction in the computer itself due to wrong readings and shorts causing the wrong readings. I assume the service engine soon light is on.

Mine is doing the same thing. I have found a parasitic draw on the battery that is draining it. I haven't been able to trace it yet but should find it tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find. To check the draw of the parasite, disconnect the negative battery cable, set your multimeter to the 10 amp setting and with the keys out and doors closed, put one probe on the negative battery cable, and the other to the negative battery post. It should read next to nothing (somewhere along the lines of 20 milli amps) I mistakenly tried to test it with my multimeter in the milli amps setting and immediately blew the multimeters fuse. Mine is constantly drawing around 2 amps. Which drains my new battery in about 12 hours. Let me know if you figure anything out as I am scratching my head on this one. Once you find that there is a parasitic draw you can trace it by pulling each fuse one by one until you find the one that drops your amperage reading. From there it's a bit tricky because you need to find a schematic to figure out every Device and connector on that particular fused circuit and then find it which Device is shorting or failing.