1994 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4cy Two wheel drive. Change out MAF, she ran fine for one day really smooth at idel and start and stops. Got up this morning and she crank fine went down to store about two blocks away, when I cane out, she wouldn't Crank. Spun the starter for a few minutes, she started spitting and supttering and finaly crank, when I left store, and turn first corner, she shut off again. Waited a few minutes and she started the same way, and made it home. Help!!

Before you replace any more parts remove the EEC, open it up and see it theres anything obvious (burnt spots, blown capacitors ect). Is your truck regular or extended cab? There's a known issue of the wiring chaffing on extended cab models.

Where is the EEC located? My Truck is the small wheel base short bed XL model. Is that the Electronic Control Unit?

Here is a couple of pictures, can you tell anything from them?

Here is the flip side.

In that first picture the White fuse on the bottom right can be wiggle just a little, if I put my finger on it. All the others seems to be a lot tighter.

Never mine that last statement about the fuse. I open it up again, and recheck them all, I think it was just my skin on my finger, and not the fuse moving.

I bought that computer a couple of years go from Auto Zone, and I found some cheap Coil's for 29 bucks a piece, you think those could have been use, and now might be crack?

Based on what I can see it looks good physically. No swollen or leaking capacitor, I see no burnt spots or corrosion. Sure a bad coil could cause that, the spark plug in that cylinder will look noticeably different than the others (black and sooty). Have you unplugged your new MAF and taken it for a drive? Check to make sure the fuel lines aren't too close to the exhaust, the fuel could potentially be turning to vapor in the line after you stop for a few minutes. Can you take a pic of you coolant sensor(s)? I just remeber you spoke of potential lack of one

The one on top is for the ecu and the one on the bottom is for the gauge, mine for the ecu was giving really weird readings compared to the new one (boiling water and a multimeter to test), my truck had more power when I swapped them as the old one was telling the ecu it was hotter than it really was which in turn was giving the engine less fuel

Pic

The top coolant sensor is the one I can't find. It has a square connecter. The one I change has a completely round connecter. I'll send you a picture. The one I change is on the left side of the Coil, it is called a Coolant Sender. The one that is suppose be on the right side of the coil is called a Coolant Sensor. But I can't find it. You see anything that looks out of the oranary?

I don't know how to load all the pictures in one post, it just want let me.

I look up a picture of my motor on the net, and it clearly shows the one on the left and the one on the right. But mine just doesn't have any thing on the right side of the coils.

What is this? Does it have anything to do with the firing of the motor?

And what about this thing on the side of the intake?

I can't tell. On my 4L its hiding under the upper rad hose. That is the fuel pressure regulator I believe and the intake thing looks like the IAC

I went and got a fuel presser regulator, does it look like I might have needed one? It was full of fuel when I took it off.

You can't tell by looking, you need to do a fuel pressure test to see of your pump and regulator are working properly, you can rent them at certain auto parts stores but you want to make sure the Ford Schrader valve adapter is in it. A bad fuel injector can also cause your issue as well as a crack between the intake and exhaust valve which is a reported issue also. I'm having a similar issue with my truck and getting ready to replace a couple known bad fuel injectors I have, ive done almost everything else short of removing the heads for inspection. Do you happen to have an exhaust leak anywhere before the catalytic converter?

It's is noisy, I have when I first got the Truck, tried to patch all the holes, but I think I must have miss a few. However it has always been like that since I got the Truck. It did run really good for about a year after I change the spark plugs, ECU and Coils pack, but just recently has been causing trouble.

My fuel pump don't have that Black ring around it. Does that make any difference? Does the new fuel pump come with one? It want be here until 5pm today.

It should come with a new seal, mine did

I didn't notice the pic of the coolant sensor before, sometimes they don't always load right away though. So the coolant sensor you changed looks to be the one for the ecu (eec in our case) and that's the one that controls the fuel to air ratio, which is what I originally said would be a good idea to replace as it cheap, easy and can cause issues if giving a false reading. Have you unplugged the new MAF yet to see what happens? If you unplug it with the engine running it should stumble and then recover, sometimes it will stall outright. Drive it with it unplugged and see if theres improvement. If you haven't already you should check over all your vacuum lines for leaks also

So, you have any idea where the Coolant Sensor is on this Motor? I had to go over to Autozone and buy the O ring and lock. It wasn't in the fuel pump box. But the guy at summint rein burst me for it.

The picture of the coolant sensor is the one I was speaking of, 2 wire for the eec. You got the same Spectra lock ring kit that I did for my truck I recognize the part number! You shouldn't be just throwing parts at your truck without testing them first though that gets costly and takes money away from the actual issue. The MAF was able to be tested with a multimeter, the fuel pump can be tested for free with a loan a tool fuel pressure tester and even the coolant sensor can be tested with a multimeter and boiling water. If you want to keep throwing parts at it by all means do it if you cam afford it but it's not the right way

No, I haven't tried the MAF unplug thing yet. But will as soon as I get my neck for the fuel tank. the other one was ripping apart. I get where you coming from about throwing parts at it, but I am 70 and broke 9 bones in my foot over 6 months ago, and I don't get around real good. So, if I have to spend a little extra just throwing a few parts at her I guess I will have to. The store is too far for me to walk to. I thought it might be something simple like the first time it broke, but they really shouldn't have put all this computer on the Trucks and who in the hell came up with 8 spark plugs on a 4cy, what in the heck was he or she thinking. I got the year before they had the computer plug in, so makes it much harder to find a problem. I like the old carb, with just a few things that could go wrong, but I guess those days are gone for ever.

Ok buddy, here is where I'm at. I got the fuel pump in, and crank it and no leaks. It run for about 3 to 4 minutes, then shut off. I tried to crank it, and it spit and sputter, but did finly crank, but never run smooth after that. Tomorrow I will put the Fuel neck and body back on, and than I can try the MAF thing you told me to do. thanks.

Good morning buddy, I took off my throllta Body to clean it, and I can't find where this little rubber plugs into anything. It is the side closes to the fire wall, but nothing there. Can you tell me what this is suppose to plug into? Thanks.

Sorry for the delay I've been away. That is probably for the purge solenoid. I know what you're saying about computers in vehicles, I hate it too and I'm not quite 40 yet. It's just way too much to diagnose now because it could be 18 times more things to fail as compared to a basic carburetored engine

Thanks Buddy for getting back to me. I found the line that plugs into the Throllta body, it is just a plastic line that plugs into this Black thing, don't know what that is, maybe you do. I google the Purge Solenoid and they said I would find it next to the gas tank or under the Wheel well. Should I change it?

And here is where it plugs into. Should I do anything to that Black Box it plugs into?

Ok, buddy, I got my injectors in, they come yesterday. I drove it 2 miles to the store, and it miss fired, but didn't spit and sputter and shout off, like it had been doing, and on the way back it miss fired once but didn't cut off, kept running smooth after the two miss fire's. I unplug the MAF, like you said, it almost died, but it didn't. I didn't drive it out the drive way, but did idle it up with my gas and it run smooth for a minute, than starting running ruff again. So, I plug the MAF back in, and it run smooth idle again. I'll take it out on a long run tomorrow early and see how she does on a longer run. What you think?

Ok, I took her around a long block which has 12 stop signs. Some times when I was at the stop sign, she would fell like she was going to shut off, but pick up and run smooth. This happen about ever other stop sign. I was about a block from my house, pass the last stop sign, doing about 20MPH, and she shut down completely. I let off the gas, and she started up again. As I was pulling in the drive way she was spit and sputter for a second or two, before I shut her off. I have change about 15 things on her, they say there is about 18, so wonder if she is something I haven't done, but she is running longer than she was before the new injectors.

My truck doesn't have the Purge Flow Sensor or Line to it. On a 1996 model I just look at has it plug into that black box and runs into the intake manifoild. Mine just has a straight plastic hose that runs into the Throttle Body and not the intake. It is just a straight line with nothing on it at all.

I was looking up Purge sensor, and they don't show any for 1994. Just 95 through 97, so I'm guessing my '94 model is not suppose to have one. Just the Purge solenoid next to the spar tire on passenger side of Truck. Does your 1994 have that line with the Purge Sensor running from the black box, to the Manifold, or just a straight ling hooking into the Thottle Body like mine?

Well I have crould around under my Truck, and I don't have that EVAP box any where. It isn't by the spar tire like it show on the picture I was looking at. I have learn that from 1991 to 1994 was called the First Generation, and there is no information on google about the First generation trucks. But it is ovest that they don't have the return gas line, like the 1995 and up. There is something very different about the first generation Trucks. I just have run out of things to look for.

That thing 16 post up, next to the Fuel pump is the only thing I haven't change. Do you know what that is?

Idle Air Control Valve. She runs like a top. Thanks.