05 sebring 2.7 conv. Ok, what a mess. Right now im at the point of determining is my problem crank or cam shaft, pcm, torque solenoid, or lots of damage. Scan gives 0700 tcm, dash gives 0688asd low


Asked by ValBourque Jul 31, 2015 at 01:52 AM about the 2005 Chrysler Sebring GTC Convertible FWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Began with my mom backing her hitch into my ac condenser.  NO
INCIDENT!  So, trans coolers are located inside the condenser which were
busted.  Had immediate shifting problems...just erratic and seemed
stuck.  Later I realized I had jerked so.hard the cable from shifter to
ignition disconnected.  Drove the car short distance to hospital in
emergency.  Wouldnt shift.  I believe was in 1st gear.  Had tremendous
burning smell.  Cranking ability deteriorated as burning increased over
several days trying to diagnose.  Stopped being able to crank.but still
burned when key in on pos.  Eventually, no more burning.  Never saw
where the burning.was coming.from.  oh, at impact, all freeon leaked
out...dont think.this is.going to.matter but you never know with chrysler.  
So, first codes were read after it.no longer cranked...the current issue
today...NO CRANK NO START.  Ive replaced the condenser and
transmission shift solenoid (discovered oil in wire 8 pin clip).  I assumed
the cooler being broken caused fluid to back up into the wire harness clip
and caused the burning smell even only with the key on and not cranked.  
Apparently I was wrong.  Before replacing the solenoid, there was no
drain on the battery.  After putting it on, the battery drained within hours
with key off.  ALL fuses, relays, circuit breakers are good.  Replaced the
ignition too.  Discovered that I had jerked the cable from shifter to ignition
starter key out.  When.I hooked it back up now I have the cant shift
anything again.  Apparently.I.had jerked this.out in the beginning.  I could
shift from reverse to drive, but only 1st gear after I had jerked this
out(when I initially drove before no crank.)  Im assuming this has to do
with park neutral safety.  I seem to.be getting volts on all my battery
cables and alt.  Nothing at starter solenoid ground.  I resecured a couple
of grounds, like ig coil, trans strap, just in case.  All terminals are clean
and secure.  Took the pcm off thinking I was just gonna have to replace it.  
The battery drained, key out, pcm disconnected.  My codes now.are 0700
tcm, and dash 0688 auto shut down relay low voltage.  Im leaning toward
crankshaft or camshaft sensors now.  With the trans solenoid
disconnected, I attempted to get a code, see what happened, and by the
time I got to the door, key already on, the battery charger cable I had
connected at the red terminal burnt up, smoking like crazy.  This burning
is what occurred when the solenoid initially went out.  So what did it burn
up the first time?  Will the ckp cmp sensors go.out from high atf temp
from broken sensors?  I also.have a list of other stuff like ,o2 heaters,
emissions, fuel air mix, but no codes with them.  And oh, my mil flashes
10 times before steady on.  Is my pcm just fried or.what?  It is worth
replacing ckp and cmp in case the torque converter stalled, tripped the
asd relay system, etc?  I think I have 2 gas banks open....like stuck
open...is.this.just the asd triggered by one of these sensors bad in the
snowball from the busted condenser with atf coolers?  I get power (when
battery charged) of interior lights, dinging, windows, top, radio, but NO
gas pump.  NO clicks, no.sounds at cranking, NO CRANK NO START
NO.NOISE...almost like trying to crank in drive.  Any help Pleeeeease???!!!!  
Thanks.  Sorry if this.info is scattered.  Im exhausted and trying to
remember everything that ive experienced from the beginning.

7 Answers


Oh lord. Im reading what I wrote and.it is so confusing. Ive been accustomed to.talking to.people who know the beginning stuff. So im leaving a.lot out. Sorry. Before.replacing the condenser with coolers and trans solenoid, I as getting 3 codes. Well the scanner was saying 6 codes but they were duplicated, so 3 imo. Dont remember exactly, but I think ambient temp, fan high something, ...ill look in my book to recall those codes. Anyhow, they went away after new cond and trans sol. Then I got codes 0700 and 0688. I read somewhere that torque converter solenoid can give the 0700 code. And ive suspected asd involvement but cant figure out how these are connected and how they are a result of the initial wreck. This is why I wonder about ckp and cmp. These seem to connect the dots, I guess. But can they go out due to high temp atf from busted coolers in cond? Maybe im thinking the wrong way. Maybe I just dont want the pcm to.be fried. It smelled burnt. I.guess. it seems every time I make.a.circle, it all points back to the pcm and the constant common factor is pcm. Any thoughts?


Keep in mind I can only get codes without cranking. Never pulled codes before it quit.cranking. im assuming the first ones were from when.it ran. I cleared them. Maybe I.shouldnt have. Maybe theyd still be there from when.the car did.crank. idk. Those codes were ... P0403 P0480 U0101 After replacing cond and trans sol. I cleared these and then I got 0700. Learned I could read the dash, and did that a few days later and got.the 0688. Still getting these 2 codes. Unlike most people, there is an event I know that caused all of these.problems. I didnt just go.out there one day and it.didnt crank. I.know what happened to cause where it.is now. So I feel the dx must explain how the final problem grew from the initial event.


Just in case anyone reads this and wonders about resolution, here is where im at now. I pulled body peices and other parts, sensors, etc off a car at a junkyard today. Need to fix the body damage in addition to function. I was able to get out of there with a pcm at no cost and I hooked It up to my car. I just wanted to see if.id.get any different behavior. no, it is not identical or programmed to my car, but I figured I could at least get a crank if indeed mine is bad. Which would at least lead me in the right direction, risk free. So, without a battery (mine boiled acid everywhere due to rogue voltage, I assume) because I havent exchanged mine yet, I hooked my battery charger/cranker to terminals, set to "start." I GOT SOME ACTION!! Holy crap! ! Now, obviously the voltage of the charger alone is not sufficient to actually crank the car or start all the systems. (Ac dc pulses etc) But, I did get starter action!!! So, the pcm was attempting to send the rogue voltage back in the right direction. Tomorrow when I get the new battery connected, I will try to crank again with the pull it yard pcm. Im expecting to get a crank. So, it seems it is not the nss. Still not totally sure about the torque converter or what other tranny damage could be present since ive not been able to get a crank or start. We will see. If I get a crank tomorrow I will order the programmed new Pcm and post my updates. What baffles me at this point is how in the heck a busted condenser and trans cooler could burn up the tcm (wihtin pcm). ???? This should not be set up in such a vulnerable way. Im wondering if ill find some other burnt sensors or parts once I get it cranked. Ill update. I cant stand.reading these threads and people have not logged in to post the resolution to help others in the problem solving process. Im just relieved im getting somewhere now without wasting money.


So, ultimately the PCM which houses the TCM on my car was burned up, fired, zapped by the rogue voltage that somehow happened after my oil coolers were busted with the hitch. Not sure how the snowball caused this but it did. I bought an identical used PCM mailed it off to get programmed to my Vin and I'm back in service. The problem now is that there is obviously further damage to the tranny. All sensors have been replaced, wiring harness twice, solenoid 3 times and PCM twice, changed fluid 3 times and still same symptoms. Smells of burning metal and sounds like grinding metal while I'm driving it. Feels like a drag on the car or something. Fluid flow is interrupted somehow. The engine twists when changing gears, although less so when fluid is in it. After a few minutes the tranny starts overheating and the fluid flow obviously backs up and tries and accomplishes coming out of all the weakest spots where the oil lines are connected, where the lines change from rubber to metal, at the solenoid, etc. So, pressure, overheating, engine twists at shifting, fluid flow interrupted, no codes...we are checking the torque converter next for this issue.


Ok the trans has a range switch check the shift cable first, the lever under air box NOTE BE SURE TO CHECK THAT WIRING THAT HANGS ON SIDE OF AIR BOX ARE PULLED OFF BEFORE ANY HARD PULLING. ENGINE SIDE BEHIND RADIATOR. once air box is removed look fo a lever that has a black tip w an eyelet push lever all the way back if you hear a click you will need a cable. Hope that helps


Ps if you cant turn the key back the battery will run down, ding ding ding is 12v draw each ding. The burning smell is fluid that most likely sprayed on to manifold. Note this car uses ATF+4 check on level ground at operating temp. Add accordingly. DO NOT OVERFILL



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