2006 Mazda 6, car is stalling when slowing down or stopped


Asked by phoenix171 Jul 16, 2013 at 11:35 AM about the 2006 Mazda MAZDA6 i Sport 4dr Sedan

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

130k miles, new battery, recent oil change.  Car completely died at a stop light - couldn't even turn on hazards.  Put the car in neutral and was able to coast about 10 feet in which case the lights came on and I was able to start the car again.  The car died again when coming to a stop or slowing down.  I was able to keep it from dying by holding the clutch down and giving it some gas and using the emergency break to slow/stop.  Diagnostics at the service station showed no error - the car doesn't know it's having a problem.  What could be going on???

15 Answers

Have the codes scanned someplace else. I can not imagine a 2006 that does that will not throw some kind of code.

6 people found this helpful.

True, it should have gave a code reading sounds like your idle screw is too low, & try getting a alternator reading just to be safe.

2 people found this helpful.

ok - will do! they did confirm that they've never seen anything like this..no error code where there's clearly a problem.

3 people found this helpful.

A 2006 Mazda6 does not have an "idle screw" It's throttle body FI

11 people found this helpful.

Sounds like your fuel pump is going out. Either that or the baffles in the gas tank could have broken which would cause the fuel in the tank to slosh backwards on take-off and forwards stopping if you're below a quarter of a tank. It happened to me, that's how I know.

8 people found this helpful.

I was driving yesterday and my car cut off but I started it back and I start driving but I could nt go ova 20 miles what could it be

10 people found this helpful.

My Mazda 6 2003 is cutting out when I decelerate, not always but when it starts the problem is continuous for a period of time. Especially when I enter a roundabout and slow. However, when I take it to a mechanic the problem does not present itself. I can usually restart it. I even tried putting in neutral and increasing the rpm's but it still cut out at a stop. Any ideas. Could it really be the fuel pump if it does not always happen. My car knowledge is really limited and I do not speak the language very well where I live so that compounds the problem.

11 people found this helpful.

Hi anybody out there. I have the same problem with my car as Elena. Does anybody know the exact problem. Which in my case my problem was not fuelling my car as often as I should have lol. I did read a msg that maybe it could be my key. I've taken into the mechanic and they can't find a problem. So maybe a fuel blockage?? My battery is Sweet as. It's nothing electrical everything's all good there.

5 people found this helpful.

Hi, I have 2004 Mazda 6, a similar strange case happening to me, the car turns off when idle in traffic signal for example and refuse to turn on again. I noticed that only if I push the car few meters while gear is on N, it then works again, I discovered this by accident. Is this related to gearbox? or something else?

6 people found this helpful.

Ok you guys are all way off. Im a mechanic and i drive a 2003 mazda 6. I also have had this similar issue. Infact once ive solved the mystery it did it again a few weeks later.and again a few weeks after that. The problem with the design is simple. There is no servicable fuel filter. The only filter is in the tank on the fuel pump. Infact its not even a filter but rather a fine screen attached on the bottom of pump. Its so fine that it tends to plug up easily with the garbage in the fuel these days. If you run your tank close to empty especially.. Fortunately the pump is located below the back seat. There is an access hole that is easily enough removed allowing you to lift the pump up out of the tank. Its best to place the pump on a bench, dissasemble and clean with brake cleaner and compressed air. Once its cleaned especially the screen reasemble and install. This should give the car the performance it had originally. However if the hazards are not working then its an electrical issue. I would check battery terminals as well as all ground wires both to the battery and the smaller one bolted to the inner fender. Make sure there all clean and secured well. This is a common mistake people make. Just because the wires are touching doesnt mean your getting a good connection. All wires and cables MUST BE tight. I hope this helps.

17 people found this helpful.

My 2007 atenza died and started straight back up twice. I know its not electics like you said so i will try the fuel pump and see what happens. Cheers bro

2 people found this helpful.

I'm sorry to say but all of you especially mark is wrong. The problem with all your vehicles is the flux capacitor is shot and u need to get it replaced asap before real problems occur. I'd hate to see y'all get sent back to 1955. with regards, Doc E. Brown

2 people found this helpful.

We had this issue and I think my mechanic solved it today. They cleaned the throttle body/valve. It had 1/4” of gunk on it. He also did a hard reset of the computer. Driving around tonight it is running awesome.

1 people found this helpful.

Prettybird73 hit the nail on the head. I cleaned the gunk off the throttle body/value and my 2009 Mazda 6 iSport is running awesome, also.

2 people found this helpful.

I was having the SAME problem with my 2003 Mazda 6 (Daisy). Replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the throttle body, and MAF (mass air flow sensor). Eventually discovered it was the catalytic converter. Which they sell at AutoZone for around $89. Hope this helps some of you.

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