CLICKING NOISE WITH AC ON BEHIND GLOVE COMPARTMENT?
wITH AC ON CLICKING NOISE....WHEN USE INSIDE AIR STOPS? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED
check the A/C air filter... how to find it and check it goto http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Chevrolet-Impala-HVAC-Cabin-Air-Filter-Replacement-Guide/index.html
bad relay,drop glove box down,you will see the clips on both sides on it they rubber,easy to drop,turn ac on feel the relays to find clicking one,replace.is a dealer only part,all relays are.go to salvage yard ,get one.
Thanks Papa - Right on the money.....unfortunatley did not have the luxury to go to junk yard to find part......went to dealer, and had them fixed......had to do right away as needed car immediatedly and could not do without the air etc.....also the clicking would not stop after I turned off ignition......I believe they call it the "activator" or something like that but you were right on......thanks again for info....
THANK YOU.glad its fixed.
I have this problem too. It clicks when i turn the knob to re-circulate the cabin air. Yes, and when the car is off it still clicks for a few minutes. How much did they charge?
They charged me over $300.....even when I told them what the problem was......if you can go to junk yard and get the relay that is best bet.....you most likely can do yourself....just a little patience...and you will be ok....there are two relays back there behind...you can feel the clicking on the one that is bad.....
Man that is a rip off,what did it take them to replace it ,5 minutes.they charged you waiteing time.
I have replaced several of them and I believe this is caused by poor contact materials on the connectors for the actuators. Over time they oxidize and develop a resistance that attenuates the signal back to the control. When the signal gets too low the control loses track of the actuator position and keeps driving the motor, resulting in clicking or broken teeth. It is tough to reach the connector contacts to clean them, but dielectric grease may help delay the oxidation. Otherwise replacing the actuator is a temporary solution.
Add another one to that as I have had same problem but with 2006 chev monte carlo and have been charged for everything incl new compressor and still not fixed
same problem on 2006 chev monte carlo been charged for everything incl new compressor and still not fixed
Replaced both of the actuators on passenger side and drivers side. Drivers side is a beast to get to and replace......this part should have been a recall from gm.....but because it is not safety related they could care less and is labor intensive and frankly they could care less.
Just had the actuators replaced in my 2009 impala, now the a/c compressor will not come on. any clues on this?
anyone know the part # on the relay ... the dealer is telling me they have never heard of the activator relay and cant find it????
It is called an actuator. There are two of them one under the glove box and the other is under dash on drivers side......Good luck...... Dealer is just playing on words.....
Well *@**! I have replaced two last year on 2011 Chev Impala, 2011 model and another one this year. The repairman told me this is an issue with this model and he changes them a lot. I asked if it will happen again and he said, yes, probably so!
Trying to fix mine in my Monte Carlo. Just what exactly do I need to find ? Thanxs
Drop your glove compartment and listen to where coming from......place you hand/fingers util you feel you will feel the vibration......take out unit and buy replacement part at Advance or Auto Zone.......this should do the job.
There are 3 actuators, 2 behind glove box and 1 behind stereo, turn car on and while clicking see if you can feel if it is either one behind glove box. Good site http://www.howtoalmanac.com/Scott/HowTo/10- 09-06ImpalaDashClickingSound.htm If it is the one behind stereo it is much more difficult to replace. My part number is 52409974 while others are 52411997 check you make and model.
Go to Amazon.com put in the part number on the side of the unit that clicks. Filter by your vehicle and it will cost you about $20 if a prime member.
Need help just replaced 2 actuators behind glove box and it fix the ticking noise but there is still no air pressure coming out of the vents!?!?! Wht could be the problem.
My car is a 2008 Chevy Impala but mine was doing the same as described-clicking when recirculate was turned on. I found the problem is the rotating plastic shroud that covers the fan. If you go to this website and watch this video I'm betting your car has the same design: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=1WVDitKwPdE. You have go under the hood to get to and remove the cabin air filter to see the shroud. The shroud wasn't closing all the way and so the fan was hitting it. I rotated it closed and it stopped clicking. I then did a series of recirculate and back to outside air. I could see the shroud rotated but didn't seem to want to close totally. I know this isn't the answer on how to fix it but at least it is what the problem is. I may try some oil or WD-40 on the pivot pins to see if it pivots correctly. If not, I'll probably have the dealer fix it. The only alternative is to never use the recirculate button.
Here is another picture with shroud open(outside air in)
And here is a picture to show where to find the filter, etc like the video shows... I did a small video of the noise and how pressing the shroud closed made the noise stop but appears I can't put a video out here... ; - (
I've replace the air blend door actuator on the passenger side twice in my 2009 impala because of the clicking noise. The noise is caused by missing teeth in the cheap plastic gears in the actuator.
Having this problem with my 2004 Impala. When I turn on the fan (whether it is recirculating or not) it begins clicking. A few seconds later it smells almost as if something is burning. Sounds like it is coming from behind the glove box. I will try some of these solutions and see if they work.
Will also add that there is no problem with the recirculation of the air or with the air intake, but the smell is awful and the clicking is constant.
My dash is still clicking and we have replaced the actuators in the glove box. Is there anything else I might try. The button to the air-conditioned will cut off and on when the clicking in dash starts. I have tried this on fresh and recirculating.
Susan, there is at least one more actuator on the driver side. I just replaced mine today! Followed this video and it works great! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqWncll4OUw
Same problem with my 2007 Impala. Is there any harm in not replacing it? Just started making the clicking noise last week. I plan to get rid of the car soon so I don't want to spend money if it is not necessary but I don't want further damage either. When I trade it in, the dealership can make the repair much cheaper than I can.
These actuators are really a curse (air door/blend door actuator). My 2011 Impala LT has made me replace 3 of them. The part number is 604-108 from DORMAN or ACDelco 15-74122 GM Original Equipment HVAC Door Actuator. The failure is caused due to a plastic gear that loses teeth and get stuck at the missing tooth causing the tapping. I fixed one interchanging the working parts of two out of service. Some body was blaming the failure on the contact which I don't agree. In my opinion, it is due to the fact that the plastic gears are to soft to move the heater doors. I bought it from Rock Auto parts online and failed again, the last one from AUTOZONE; but, they all are DORMAN, made in china like the original from GM so I don't think that my saving money would be a problem.
I have a 2013 Chevy impala LT. Mine started clicking when I switched from heat to cold, Now it clicks when i open the door ( car is not even on ) stays on for about 2 minutes then stops. So it's on when I get in the car, starts clicking faster for 2 to 3 minutes and stops. If I use the remote it clicks, if i open a unlocked door it clicks. My Son said it just started clicking while sitting in the drive. Very trippy
Go into the glove box the part is under 40 dollars at advanced auto part # 604-108 there is two of them so turn it on and put your hand on them so you can feel which one is bad.you can see the door trying to open the gears get stripped easily bad design
You have to open your glove box and then squeeze the sides and your glove box will drop down further you'll see all the parts for the air and heat in there
Ok great, thank you. Question, my defroster stopped on the passenger side about the same time. We ended up un clipping we thought was it, then today I flipped the ac to heat and it started, then stopped
no problem! I had the same thing happen to me. Pull the carpet back on the passenger side, you'll see wires leading up to the blower motor un-clip the wires from the connector and look inside you will probably have some oxidation like I did. I paid under 30 for the part from advance. Every time I had a passenger ride in my car they would hit the wires just right and make it shut off . I used to just hit my dash and make it start working again until I figured what the culprit was. If you need me to take pics just let me know!
@ Mark. You are right tht it seems the door wasn't closing fully. But, unfortunately, the problem is inside the cheaply designed plastic gears inside the actuator. I had about 3 teeth missing in a row that once that dead spot rolled back around, the door will get stuck. If you tear apart the old actuator when you pull it out (it's garbage at this point anyway so it won;t matter if you break the tabs separating the half cover pieces), you will find the gear with the broken teeth. Hope this will help as I just changed one in a 2009 Chevy Impala.
2014 Chevrolet Impala LT This is some great information, thank you all! I'm single, with no mechanical ability, and no mechanic friends. I can't afford the cost of dealer repair, so I'm going to try to fix this myself. Let's just hope and pray I don't break everything else in the process! Thanks again!
My 2010 Chevy Impala makes a clicking sound when I open and shut doors. Never while driving. It goes on for maybe 15 seconds and once I'm driving, it shuts off. Therefore, this is happening even with my keys out of the ignition and seems to be on right side of car. Is it still the actuator relay when the car hasn't even been turned on and therefore no AC or outside air is blowing? And, how dangerous if it to jot get fixed right now? I'm a single mom with limited funds.tHank you for any suggestions.
@sackingsgirl06 The actuator will make noise when the electrical system of the car is on (even if no air is flowing). This happens when you unlock the car with the key fob or open the car door. If it is on the right side, then you can access it right behind the glove box and replace it. The part is around $30. I'd highly recommend the do it yourself on this. I, a single college-aged girl, fixed my own on the driver side. The most difficulty was caused just by the location on the driver side, but that won't be a problem for you on the passenger side. Also, I doubt that it is really a danger if you wait a bit, but I'm definitely no mechanic! A semi-fix-it-inclined friend could help you take care of it no problem if you don't want to try yourself.
The gear needed to fix the actuator is now available as a rebuild kit! Save money and avoid junk aftermarket parts! Buy the kit here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/172493501244 Install instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=HbUCxLFmYn0
Is there an actuator for another type of blend door way up on top center of the dash (by the windshield) that controls the defroster? I have replaced all three other actuators when they began clicking (the two in the glove box and the hard one to get at underneath on the driver's side by the steering column) but this one was much louder and finally stopped clicking when it lost enough teeth. Problem is that the system only blows hot air now. I had tried to locate the part as it clicked but it was so high up inside the dash that it appeared to me that you would need to remove the dash to get at it. Anyone know if there is another actuator buried way up there?
Same question as 3 Bowties
Thank u so much
Replacing this part again after 10 months. Same problem as before. But at least the part is cheaper on Amazon! Definitely not a well- engineered system, but at least it's fixable.
I'm feeling the same pain, Christina. I've replaced each of them once, only to have them fail again. I ended up replacing the pain in the a$$ one by the steering column after I wrote the question a few months ago. The noise stopped for a few months and now the same one just started clicking AGAIN.
Just a bit of advice, If you are replacing the actuator, and it fails after a few months, you probably need to also clean and lube up what that actuator is moving, the vent flaps. They are probably gummed up, and causing the actuator to overwork to open / close them, thus they fail much much sooner. Even the cheap China ones should last years.
Very good point 89M. Anyone of us who has endured the a$$pain of replacing these actuators can surely appreciate getting even a few more months of use before these cheap pieces of cr@p break again. Our problem will of course be how to get the lubricant into the impossibly small spaces the actuators are in, when it is often difficult to even get the nut drivers or ratchets in to exchange the units. But again, anything to prolong the agony is a good thing. Thanks for the tip!
hello, I have a 2006 monte carlo how do I get to the actuator on top of the dash but in back ok my dash. Also where is the air conditioner recharge system on my 2006 monte carlo. I want to charge my ac. Thanks In advance :)
Disconnect it that's what I did with mine after fixing it once, and the fix not even lasting a year, the second time it broke I disconnected it. Now I have to disconnect the driver side one, its making noise and ate my battery, anybody know any videos online on getting to the driver side one.
Laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, I got some great tips from ome guy named "Clowny" who has a bunch for Impalas, they can be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqWncll4OUw. I recommend googling some videos and toss in "Monte Carlo" to see if you may be able to narrow your search down. Seems most on this board have Imps. Good luck!
Hello Everyone, this is my discovery on the heat vent actuator, I firmly believe that it is actually caused from the computer for the HVAC system. When you adjust the heat control lever the actuator moves in small increments, and on mine I had the clicking noise also, but all the teeth on the gears were not worn or broken, but the motor was continually spinning the gears, for approximately 2 minutes, so there is a electrical communication between the actuator and the heater controller, thus by allowing the actuator to keep spinning and burning up the gear teeth, so I firmly believe that the actual issue is in electrical system and only causes the actuator to go bad by allowing it to keep spinning, Just Another Product By GM, but what do I know. I've only been a ASE cert Mechanic since 1978.
Thanks Wildbill47......One would have hoped that gm would have done something to resolve and compensate current and past gm owners of this problem......just think of the hundreds of thousands of dollars owners have spent trying to resolve.
The Auto Makers have great technology but too much of a hurry to use it and then they don't own up to it when it fails, and us the consumer get stuck with the bill. We all just need to remember that eventually everything no matter how well we care for it weather if it is electrical or mechanical it will fail , some sooner and some later... that's the price we all pay for technology...
The vent actuator failure is caused by the actuator not being powered down by the controller. When the vent door gets to the end of it's travel, the controller sees the amp draw rise and stops sending power to the actuator. The gears in the actuator are not strong enough to repeatedly stand up to the motor being stalled out before the controller cuts power.
That is absolutely correct, so hopefully now others will have a better understanding of why there actuator is failing, not because of the actuator being a low quality part, but the controller not working the way it was designed too.
Brilliant. Now if GM would only sit down for 5 minutes and figure out the right coding to retune the controller. I dare say that my 12-year old could probably have a better shot at coding a simple stop sequence into the controller than the nitwits in Motown.
This is all familiar to the issue with my 2010 Impala. since it keeps flapping for a bit after I turn off,park & leave and starts, like; as soon as I pull up the door handle. I've thought " It seems like, as soon as there's any call for electricity to anything in the cabin. Like; pull up handle, ceiling lamp comes on,etc. I.ve gotten it to quiy b4 by holding the cd/aux. buton while thumbing the cd eject button. All of the self fixes are bad for me because my left arm/hand are parylized from stroke. can't get the glove box down, etc. with just my right hand. they fixed it once before under my extended warranty. Grandaughter said a friend just reache under the glove box & twidled something , it quit. From all the replace actuator info, mu guess is he just yanked it or the wire off. then passenger side got no heat in winter. never thought about battery running down, since it quits after I walk away 60 sec.
Wildbill47, I took the actuator on the right hand side out (passenger side - the one for recirculation door) and all the gears are fine. My son actually thought of it being an electrical issue, and I finally found your post verifying this. So my question is, if the part appears to be fine, what do I fix? Is there an electrical component to replace? If not, why would putting in a new actuator fix it? I don't know what to do now.
Good Morning. I do understand your concern, if it looks good it should be working, but here is the situation, the car has a computer for the H-VAC, and when you turn the key on it does a diagnostic check and it is sensing a very slight increase in the voltage draw, and therefore thinks it has not opened all the way, so the computer is still sending power to the actuator, and then the gears on the actuator are binding and causing the clicking sound, even though it appears to be fine it does need to be replaced, on eBay there are many companies selling them, just look and find the best priced one , most have free shipping, I did my passenger side a month ago and paid $20.00 total to the door, did the driver side 3 years ago the same way and still works, welcome to modern technology, it’s good with some minor set backs, hopefully this helps you and your son, sometimes we over think the problem and it easily gets us confused...... take care.. Bill.
Wildbill47, Thanks for your response. Yes, that makes sense now. We were thinking that the root cause may be the component that is "monitoring" the actuator and not cutting off power when it is supposed to, and didn't want to replace the actuator unnecessarily. But now I see how it could just be getting "bad information" from a bad actuator. THANKS again!
Your welcome, I know how you feel, I had spent a solid week looking and seeking the answer ( Why ? ) it just boils down to technology that is very precise, it annoying to have these issues but having this technology is helpful in the long run.... take care and have a spectacular day...
can we just remove the part and not replace it ???
You could, but unfortunately you'd lose some functionality from your heater, a/c and/or your defroster depending on which actuator you pulled. It would stop the annoying clicking but I would suspect you'd lose far more in use from your system. I found that I just can't leave the dual temperature levers on my Imp all the way down on cold otherwise it would click. I have to leave them up about two notches above the coldest setting and that stops the clicking. Annoying, but I've replaced every actuator twice over the past five years and I'm done playing their game.
I have removed the driver side ac actuator and when I removed it was in max cold and its going to be summer so I won't need heater. But i am just conserned that will it cause any problem if I don't replace it.
What if its the ones on the leftside of the controls in the dash..i unplug. All three behind the govebox an it still was makeing the noise..i was told to drop the dash board an i would fine it there.is it true that its more on the left side of the controls in the dash other then the three i unplug behind the govebox.now i saw the two round parts to change out but theres another plug next to the frist round part on the left of it. makeing it the third plug i took loose which is still on the rightside of the controls behind the govebox so my question is are there more in the dash that i would have to pull the whole dash. An i dont know how to take down dash broad .so thinking i could just take fuse out tell i can take to shop .do u know which fuse.
Sorry this is email@example.com .i have a 2007 Chevy Impala and it's making the clicking sound I'm trying to find out how do I get it stopped or which fuse do I take out from under the hood I've wrote and said that I've taken three plugs a loose from behind the govebox on the right side of the controls of the heating and air but it seems to be another one on the left side of the controls behind the dash and a friend said that there's another one there I don't know how to drop the dash so I'm looking for easier way like I'm plugging the fuse until I can get it to the shop but really want to know are there another one on the left side of the controllers in the dash and is there an easier way to get to it without dropping the dash if not which relay or fuse do I pull to stop the sound of clicking
Tommy, there are three actuators by the glovebox- two on the left and one on the right (going from memory now, it's been a year since I've been up in there). There is indeed a fourth one to the left of the radio & a/c controls. I've seen folks saying you have to drop the dash to change it out but I was able to change it without removing the dashboard, that sounds like too much work. I will tell you that it's the worst of the four to change (and I don't have small hands) but I don't see pulling the dash to get at it, that's crazy talk. Regarding which fuse to pull, I don't know which one it is. Consult the owner's manual or search for it online if you don't have it. If you noticed one of my posts above I found that if you don't push the two temperature control levers all the way to the bottom for AC it will stop it from clicking during AC operation- just raise it up about two notches from full cold. Good luck to you.
Did the clicking noise problem kill ur battery as well.. cause that's what's happening with my 13 Impala ltz.. my battery dies out every now and then.. trying to figure out if the clicking behind the glove compartment is the root cause..
No, it's never killed my battery. I've had several of them go bad on me but I'm able to live with it until I get time to replace them by not putting the temp control levers all the way down to the bottom. Raising them up about two clicks from the coldest setting makes the clicking stop for my '09. Good luck with chasing your battery issue.
There are four actuators. Three behind the glove box and one under the steering column. The single actuator under the driver's side is for temperature control of the drivers side. The actuator on the far right side of the glove box area is for recirculating air - fresh or inside recirculation. The one on the left side toward the front is for directing the air flow top, middle, and bottom vents. The one on the left behind that one is for the temperature of the passenger side. All of them are really difficult to reach and change. Whatever they charge to change them will spare you a lot of grief. They are so much trouble that you may as well change them rather than rebuild with new gears. All of the gears other than the one on the motor are plastic and usually break a tooth off and that is what makes the clicking sound. They are made in China so what does that tell you?
On my 11 impala, it almost seems like the BCM needs to soften the blow on these actuators, my recirc door moves very freely and I suspect the momentum of the door stopping so quickly when it closes is frying the synchronization of the actuators. Man I wish I would have bought another 2000-2005 impala instead of this one, it was better in every way
Mine was the actuator on the right side of the glovebox. I just unplugged it and the clacking stopped. If it only controls fresh air vent, I don't care. We'll see how it works, otherwise I found part on ebay for $10 (free shipping).
I’m having the same type problem. Not always but sometimes when I turn on my 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan it starts making a clicking noise and it sounds like it’s in the dashboard by the glove box. Sometimes it’s like 2 clicks then stops others it’s continual and I have to keep turning it off then backi on. I will look in my glove box but I’m guessing it won’t be as easy. I had it to the mechanic and they fixed something with the ac but it didn’t fix the clicking. The ac works great though.
Why does it start clicking when the car is parked and no one is even near my car ? Gary
Not a dealer part I buy them all the time at pepboys
I replaced my daughter's last yr and replacing one today and not a dealer part only I got mine at advanced Auto and pepboys
I've got a 2010 Impala and the clicking noise comes on in about 2 minutes into driving then stops about 2 minutes after I've been driving. But, if i turn the car off then come back out later and open a door it just randomly starts the clicking again. Even when the car isn't running at all and doesn't even have the key in, just starts that clicking noise?? Is it the same issue and mentioned above, the relay??
It sounds like it may be. When I have the a/c on I cannot push my two temperature levers all the way down to full cold or they will click. I must keep them about two or three clicks above the full cold position to keep the actuators from clicking. Additionally, when I remote start my car in the summer while the a/c is on, the actuators will click until I insert and turn the key to the run position, at which time the clicking stops. Such a very annoying defect, I cannot believe that GM refuses to apply what by all accounts is a simple programming patch to the climate control system. It really shakes my faith and loyalty to the Bowtie brand.
I learned something that wild bill 47 was saying. I have 2013 impala and about 3 yrs ago my battery starting going bad, around the same time the heat quit blowing on the driver side. When I was finally able to afford a new battery, I noticed sometime after the heat started working again. Well a week ago I was listening to my radio while I was outside and lights on run the battery down. Well next morning I cranked it with my battery charger and now it's clicking behind and doing the same thing as Sue777, I can unlock it with the key chain controller and it starts clicking no matter if the key is in it or not? And when I kill it and get out, it does it for about 2 minutes? There Has to be a way to reset it or through the computer? I tried taking the battery cables off all night but still didn't work, I'm trying 1 more time tonight and check in the morning? I Believe it's Definitely a low voltage issue that causes this, but there has to be a fix besides changing the actuator? Please comment your thoughts wildbill47 and 3 bowties lol
I wish I could answer that one. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but the electrical systems and especially all the electronics are not in my old school wheelhouse. Unfortunately I grew up changing plugs, points, condensers & distributer caps. I've changed out all my actuators twice and every one invariably starts clicking again within a few months.
2013 Impala~ same issue with clicking from only the right lever. Adjusted lever to almost halfway, and it stopped the clicking. Didn’t resolve issue which I have now read on this forum and understand what to do next.
I have been having this same issue with the clicking noise behind the glove box for a week now on my 2011 chevy Impala. But today when I got in and tried to back up I could barely turn my steering wheel. Once I got driving, it was okay, but now I'm really scared to drive anywhere. Are these two issues related? Please help, no mechanical abilities what-so- ever, and broke as hell!
No, these two issues are not related. Possible cause of your hard steering may be low power steering fluid. The pump is easy find under the hood, just do a web search for something like '2011 impala power steering pump' and you'll be able to locate it easily. Regarding the clicking noise, as you can see by the number of responses and the dates of them, this is an unfortunate defect in these cars and despite me having replaced each of the four actuators TWICE in the six years I've owned my '09 Impala, they continue to break and begin clicking after a period of time. Wish there was a more sunny outlook to the issue but unfortunately not this time. Hope you have a good day.
My 2013 ltz is doing the same clicking noise but my battery keeps dying. Is their a certain actuator i should be looking for??
I just bought the actuator at auto zone for 30 bucks..it was a bit tricky to get in because it's in a difficult place, but I got it. You need a 7/32 socket and a tiny ratchet. Saved myself at least three hundred bucks or so. Incidentally, all 3 actuators in an impala (06-13) are the same part number.
The actuator is not the problem the blend air door is binding up its to tight. I replaced mine tried to rotate the door had to use a tool to rotate door. There’s no way plastic gears would not strip or brake off when the door is that hard to rotate. No wonder the new actuator only last a short period of time mine lasted about two months. My next step is to pull the dash apart and find out why the doors are binding up.
The actuators need to be calibrated,Key on push both A/C and RECIRC buttons at the same time, 3 times quickly, the switch LED lights should flash while calibration is taking place. 10 to 30 seconds, LED's quit when calibration is done. Calibration sets the travel stops of the actuators so they don't continue to try to move when they reach their stops.
ATTENTION; READ ABOVE POST do this any time actuators are changed
Would this cause the air container to not work properly?
GuruC6XF5, I tried to do this several times on my '09 Imp, it did not work. KMdawn911- possibly it could cause AC issues. If the actuator that diverts air from the panel vents to the defroster, it could have an impact on how effective your AC is. But it will not cause the AC to completely not work. The actuators move doors within the system that divert the flow of air to certain vents- floor, panel, defroster, etc. They do not control whether the AC system works, they simply move the air to different vents. After changing each actuator at least twice in four years I give up. They all suck, whether you buy OEM parts from the dealer or cheap Chinese crap from an auto parts store, you get the same result. They too will break within a year. Sorry if my reality seems harsh, but the truth is often a bitter pill to swallow- these actuators suck and there is no fix for them.
Yep...they sure do! I’ve changed this same one 3 x’s Since my original post. Only thing I’ve learned along the way is that I have to go VERY slow in changing blower destination. If I want to go from front blowing to defrost, do it one click at a time. Seems to be holding on this format. It’s the teeth that get broken.
Thanks for the tip, and good luck with yours.
I wish I could say that it has been a couple of years since I had to change mine. I am officially a professional actuator installer. I just installed the far right one a month ago and it stated clicking again. Any thoughts or ideas.
ACTUATOR KEEP CLICKING EVEN AFTER REPLACEMENT? Problem: Passenger side heat door actuator makes clicking noise upon unlock/entry to the vehicle and/or when adjusting the passenger side warm/cold rheostat. Removed Passenger side actuator, took apart and found bad gear due to binding. Repair #1: Replace passenger side actuator with new part. Result: Passenger side actuator still binding (making clicking noise). Repair #2: Re-calibrate all vents using ScanTool as per this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoNNYWpZm_M Result: Passenger side actuator still binding (making clicking noise). Repair #3: Replace rheostat control (warm/cold positioner) AND perform re-calibration using ScanTool. Result: ??? It seems to me that after replacing the actuator and the problem persists then the rheostat (warm/cold positioner) would be the next likely culprit. The first two repairs did not correct the original problem of "Passenger side heat door actuator makes clicking noise upon unlock/entry to the vehicle and/or when adjusting the passenger side warm/cold rheostat." Additionally I observed that while I had the actuator removed (viewing the backside to line up the slotted hole with the heat door position) adjusting the rheostat controller to certain positions caused the actuator to run constant, for about 20 seconds. Has anyone considered replacing the rheostat that controls the actuator? NOTE #1: This issue randomly occured 4 times over the course of 2 weeks prior to being constant. Constant occurrence began after using the autostart feature on a very hot day. NOTE #2: Performing a recalibration is almost always recommended to ensure proper actuator function and to avoid breaking gears.
Hello! I have a 2008 Chevy Impala and have had two actuators replaced spring far and knew one of them would need fixed due to clicking noise, but it hasn’t been an issue since I’ve only used the AC recently. A week ago on a road trip I needed heat to defrost the window and I heard the clock a few times...no biggie I already knew what it was...except ever since then the ac blows hot on the passenger side ☹️ My question is how do I know which one is actually bad??? If I put my hand on the ones in glove box will I still be able to feel the clicking cuz it no longer makes the noise ?? Worse case I’ll just replace all of them and hope for the best, but any advice is appreciated by me and my bank account!!